September 27th, 2013

If you’re hungry, you’ve got some time to spare and you don’t mind a little drive, there’s a place you really might want to check out. It’s called the Tribune Tavern, in reference to the Oakland Tribune, whose real estate it shares. A bit of a drive, you were warned, but oh-so-worth it if you can be bothered.

Walking in, it becomes obvious pretty fast that this place is in deep with all the foodie trends. Try, for example, ordering a Belvedere martini, which you may be used to thinking is more or less a classy kind of a drink, and you’ll quickly earn the waitress’ pitiful contempt. They do not carry any commercial brands. Sad as she is about your ignorance, though, she’s perfectly willing to give you the paragraph she’s memorized on each of the organic, local labels they do serve. And that’s just cocktails. The food goes the same way. The staff has all spent quality time with every one of the animals you might choose to eat and so can vouch for both their humane treatment and the fortitude of each animal’s individual character. You’re free, in fact, to ask about each and every step of the process of the making of your meal, from seedling to plating, if you can stand the tedium of listening to the answers.

When this much care and attention to detail goes well, though, it sure is a pleasure. The food we ate there, the night I went, was some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. And, almost in spite of their best efforts, it’s a really comfortable, easy place to be. The crowd isn’t too hipster-ish, there’s no wait. In the end, you can’t even blame them for all the soliloquies on the merits of their ingredients when, really, the result is kind of spectacular. Find a night and give it a try, you won’t be sorry.

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